Architectural Adventures in old Muharraq: Bayt Sheikh Isa bin Ali

The House of Sheikh Isa bin Ali Al Khalifa in old Muharraq was both his residence and the seat of his government.

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Isa bin Ali (1848 - 9 December 1932) was Hakim of Bahrain from 1869 until his death. His reign of 63 years is Bahrain’s longest.

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Sheikh Isa concluded a second protectorate treaty with the United Kingdom in 1880. The protectorate remained in effect until 1971.

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Lauded for its intricate ornamentation, this beautiful house is considered one of the most impressive examples of Gulf Islamic architecture in Bahrain, and perhaps the region. Located on what is now the “Pearling Path,” it offers a fascinating insight into the life of the royal court in the 19th century.

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Inwardly focused and built in the traditional style, it comprises a series of rooms opening onto four major courtyards. Its functioning wind towers dominate the neighbourhood skyline.

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Fortress-like from the outside, the house, which was constructed around the year 1800 (Hijri 1446) adjoins the Sheikh Isa bin Ali Mosque. Up until the 1960s it would have been located relatively near to the shoreline. Recent land reclamation now places it more centrally within the island.

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The Pearling Path is walkable, as its name suggests, connecting a line of Muharraq’s historical buildings along its historical foreshore.

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Today’s Muharraq souq, which surrounds the house, is a lively centre of street life and commerce, reminding us that Bahrain’s urban fabric remains a wonderful mix of new – and old.